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Luxury Pricing

A. Introduction

A monetary offering made to obtain a product or service represents the price of said product or service, is the definition of pricing according to economists (Cheng & Monroe, 2013). On the other hand, behavioural price researchers contend that buyers have internal as well as individual norms against which prices are judged (Cheng & Monroe, 2013). Additionally, in reality, buyer perception affects the cost of a service or product, thus making it subjective and not objective as assumed by economists (Cheng & Monroe, 2013). Thus, it can be stated that consumers’ perceived value of a product influences the price of a product or service.  This is typically seen in the luxury industry. Factors that are influential in determining the value of luxury are driven by financial, functional, emotional and social considerations (Hennigs et al., 2015). All these factors combined contribute to the persuasion efforts that convince consumers to pay a premium price (Hennigs et al., 2015). A perfect balance among all these factors determines the absolute value of a luxury product. Furthermore, an increase in demand has impacted the prices of luxury goods, wherein prices are hiked as a result of an increase in distribution to meet high demands. This strategy has proven to be successful in the short term but can potentially lead to the dilution of the exclusive status enjoyed by luxury products. The two major themes that this essay will focus on are factors that shape and impact the pricing strategy for luxury goods and an alternate strategy is proposed that will enable luxury brands to maintain their exclusive status. The findings are supported by industry examples and statistical data is utilised to understand consumers’ attitudes towards luxury products and services in the UK.

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B. Factors that shape the value of luxury products

B.1 Dimensions of pricing strategies

Luxury products are consumed as a way to assert a higher social status. Consumption of luxury goods can be defined as a reserved privilege exercised by the elite and the powerful, to differentiate and assert their power (Dion & Arnould, 2011). According to evidence-based research, the desire and consumption of luxurious products are based upon several dimensions of perceived value by consumers (Wiedmann et al., 2009, p.4). These include individual, financial, functional and social consumer perceptions (Wiedmann et al., 2009, p.4). Refer to Figure 1 for a detailed description of the conceptual model.

Figure 1

Figure 1: Determining factors Consumers’ Luxury Value Perceptions 

Source: Hennigs et al., 2015

Functional and individual are categorized as a luxury for self. The former reminds consumers that it has value beyond “looking like art” and the latter refers to materialism and pleasure derived from consuming hedonic products (Wiedmann et al., 2009, p.4). Although all 4 dimensions are widely accepted while crafting a pricing policy, one factor has a potential shortcoming. The dimension of financial value is more of a defining characteristic rather than a value (Kapferer & Valette-Florence, 2016). “Luxury is inevitably expensive” (Kapferer & Valette-Florence, 2016), is a statement that is prejudiced and lacks any solid reasoning thereby making it a weak attribute and an even weaker influence when determining the pricing policy. Additionally,  a higher price point becomes a prerequisite as opposed to an attribute that has any added value. Therefore, while designing the pricing strategy for luxury products least importance must be given to the “financial” attribute. Finally, the last dimension, social values, is defined by the conspicuous nature of luxurious goods. For instance, according to Statista, Louis Vuitton has 86% brand awareness (Statista, 2022). As the iconic “LV” monogram is easily recognizable, it drives up the brand’s social value ultimately propelling Louis Vuitton to the top. Additionally, 55% of people believe that luxury experiences serve to impress other people (Mintel, 2022). Thus, the social value of a luxury brand outweighs other factors, therefore brand managers should not underestimate the impact of social values while moulding a pricing strategy.

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B.2 Correlation between prices and quality

The perception of quality may be determined by the price of goods (Wiedmann et al., 2009). This is a trend that is commonly seen across most brands in the luxury industry. According to a Mintel report, 70% of consumers believe that the definition of luxury is “premium quality”. Also, only 11% (8% disagree + 3% strongly disagree) that luxury products are made with higher quality products than regular products (Mintel, 2022). This tells us that consumers strongly believe that luxury products are synonymous with excellent quality. Conversely, providing excellent quality goods or services is not the only reason behind the high price point. The higher price of luxury products is of a unique kind which cannot be completely justified by a gap in the quality of the product or performance (Kapferer & Valette-Florence, 2016). Luxury products are “needlessly expensive” (Kapferer & Valette-Florence, 2016), thereby suggesting that good quality products can be made available to consumers without having to charge a large sum. Demanding a higher price only based on quality is unjustified. Consumers must be enticed with me more than the notion of exceptional quality. 

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Additionally, luxury prices cannot be entirely explained by the functional qualities outlined by Hennings (Kapferer & Valette-Florence, 2016). Luxury products or services surpass the customer satisfaction that is derived from superior quality products or services (Kapferer & Valette-Florence, 2016). Thus, challenging Hennings’ dimension of functional qualities that determine the price of luxury goods. Moreover, there is alternate research that suggests luxury prices are that of “singularities”, and prices are built upon intangibles (Kapferer & Valette-Florence, 2016). These intangibles include associations with reputable clients, an imaginary or desirable lifestyle, country of origin and heritage (Kapferer & Valette-Florence, 2016). Brands are even known to name certain products after or in honour of famous personalities. For instance, Dior has named the iconic ‘Lady Dior’ bag after Princess Diana (Klerk, 2022). Leveraging the identity and reputation of a celebrity creates a perception around the product of an aspirational lifestyle which persuades consumers into buying the desired lifestyle by means of a product. By successfully applying this, consumers can potentially overlook the premium price as they are now chasing an aspirational lifestyle and not a product that elevates their social standing.

Image 1: Princess Diana carrying the Lady Dior bag

Source: Klerk, 2022

To sum up, the "social value of a brand" emerges as the major factor influencing the purchase of luxury items. Subsequently, a brand with strong social value will remain in demand for longer. Also, having suitable ties to celebrities and leveraging their reputation will afford brands the freedom to create an alternate and desirable lifestyle, which may even justify the high price point in consumers’ minds. Therefore, brand managers must consider the power that social value holds while pricing the products or services offered. Finally, the pricing policy must appropriately reflect the value of the intangibles that not only drive the social value for the consumers but also generate a sizeable profit for the brand.

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C.Maintaining exclusivity without price increments

C.1 The rapid growth of the luxury industry 

The global luxury industry is flourishing and has witnessed a greater demand for luxurious goods with an average annual increase of 3-4% since 2009 (Wang et al., 2021). To meet the ever-increasing demand, many luxury brands have undertaken rapid line extensions as well as large-scale productions (Wang et al., 2021). Even though this step had proven to be financially promising, the emergence of “mass luxury” is a serious concern (Wang et al., 2021). It is typically referred to as the massification of luxury. It threatens the very status of exclusivity and rarity, that has long been enjoyed by luxury brands. Exclusivity and rarity are the two factors that reside at the very core of luxury brands. To offer a product so exclusive, it’s almost like it’s specially made for each individual, is the true essence of luxury. Additionally, these two factors combined are also the key drivers of luxury purchases (Kapferer and Valette-Florence, 2016). The accessibility of luxury goods is also due to prosperity in society. There is an increase in wealth, making luxury accessible to the masses (Yeoman & McMahon-Beattie, 2013). Earlier, luxury was only associated with the status of an individual. Now, consumers are in pursuit of luxury to improve their lives (Yeoman & McMahon-Beattie, 2013). This shift is known as the “feminisation of luxury”, wherein it has switched from male status symbols and trophies to indulgence and experience (Yeoman & McMahon-Beattie, 2013). This shift is a result of the increase in women’s buying power (Yeoman & McMahon-Beattie, 2013). Given the increase in purchasing power along with the ever-increasing demand for luxurious goods, naturally, there is a rise in distribution and sales. This hike in demand could potentially dilute the desirability of luxury and exclusivity of brands, subsequently, eroding its luxury status and even the brand equity (Yeoman & McMahon-Beattie, 2013). Furthermore, the term “luxury” is used almost too liberally. “If everything is “luxury” ”, then the word itself lacks meaning (Kapferer and Bastien, 2009). Overuse and misuse of the term has led to a dilution of the meaning it carries. 

 

Brands are known to increase the price of products as a result of increasing demand. Instead of hiking the prices to meet the global demand (Sotheby’s, 2023 a) a more discreet way of marketing is required (Hennings et al., 2015). An increase in pricing due to rising demand is a short-term solution for brands and can even hamper the brand’s social value wherein consumers can call into question the higher price instead of overlooking the premium price tag.

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C.2 Alternative strategy to meet rising demands

Understatement, as opposed to opulence, is required across all consumer contact points (Hennings et al., 2015). For instance, consumers must be offered private shopping events and even individualised products (Hennings et al., 2015). Also, a paradigm shift towards “conscientious consumption” from “conspicuous consumption” (Hennings et al., 2015) is required to maintain the exclusive status of luxury. A change in the way luxury is consumed will create a class of limited consumers while maintaining the long-standing status of luxury being rare and exclusive. Additionally, restricting accessibility will elevate consumers’ desire for a luxury experience (Wang et al., 2021). A “golden segregation” (Wang et al., 2021), wherein only products are offered only to a selected few. Limiting the access itself will drive up curiosity and consequently the desire for luxury products itself. The motivation behind this is to create a product that is desired by all but available only to a few. A brand that has consistently maintained its status of exclusivity is Hérmes and the globally acclaimed Birkin Bag. The heritage leather goods brand designed the Birkin Bag in 1984. The Birkin Bag is considered the ultimate symbol of luxury. To buy a Birkin Bag one must have a purchase history with the brand (Sotheby’s, 2023 b). A brand-new bag is not available to buy off the shelves and is available in selected boutiques across the globe (Sotheby’s, 2023 b). Only consumers with an established purchase history have the option to buy a Birkin bag. By implementing this strategy, Hérmes is also encouraging the sales of its other products. This can be termed a kind of “reward scheme” wherein loyal consumers receive the prize of purchasing a bag that represents the ultimate form of exclusivity. 

Image 2: Different types of Hermès Birkin bags

Source: Pinterest, 2023

In conclusion, the future of luxury is a positioning that is an exclusive experience available only to a select few individuals. The perception of luxury in the minds of consumers must be a product or service that represents a highly desirable lifestyle which can only be achieved by a few. The massification of luxury is contradicting in nature and dilutes the definition of the term. Exclusivity is what allows luxury to thrive.

 

D. Conclusion

Overall, a brand’s social value is the most influential factor while designing the pricing policy. The recognizability of a brand is what drives consumer purchases despite the premium price. A strong social value also allows brands to survive for longer in today’s competitive environment. Therefore, brands must focus on building a strong social value which not only fortifies the brand’s image but also allows consumers to overlook the price tag. Finally, instead of moving towards making luxury available to the masses and potentially losing the true essence of the term itself, brands must create limited opportunities for consumers. Offering selective approaches creates an aura of mystery around the brand while maintaining its exclusive status.

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References
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Birkin: Hermes Bag Birkin, Birken Bag, Hermes Birkin Colours (2023) Pinterest. Available at: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/8303580556940438/ (Accessed: 15 April 2023).

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Cheng, L.L. and Monroe, K.B. (2013) “An appraisal of Behavioral Price Research (part 1): Price as a physical stimulus,” AMS Review, 3(3), pp. 103–129. Available at: https://doi.org/10.1007/s13162-013-0041-1 (Accessed: 15 April 2023).

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Dion, D. and Arnould, E. (2011) “Retail luxury strategy: Assembling Charisma through art and Magic,” Journal of Retailing, 87(4), pp. 502–520. Available at: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jretai.2011.09.001 (Accessed: 15 April 2023).

 

Hennigs, N. et al. (2015) The complexity of value in the luxury industry: From consumers' individual value perception to luxury consumption, International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management. Emerald Group Publishing Limited. Available at: https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/IJRDM-07-2014-0087/full/html (Accessed: 15 April 2023).

 

Kapferer, J.-N. and Valette-Florence, P. (2016) Beyond rarity: The paths of luxury desire. how luxury brands grow yet remain desirable, Journal of Product & Brand Management. Emerald Group Publishing Limited. Available at: https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/JPBM-09-2015-0988/full/html (Accessed: 15 April 2023). 

 

Klerk, A.de (2022) Dior to re-issue the Handbag Princess Diana carried to the met gala, Harper's BAZAAR. Harper's BAZAAR. Available at: https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/a41980301/lady-dior-princess-diana-met-gala/ (Accessed: 17 April 2023). 

 

Mintel (2022) Consumer Attitudes towards Luxury - UK - 2022. Available at: https://data-mintel-com.ezproxy.kingston.ac.uk/databook/1101831/#Q17 (Accessed: 14 April 2023)

 

Reuters (2023) World's richest man sees LVMH Empire Post record $86B in sales, New York Post. New York Post. Available at: https://nypost.com/2023/01/26/bernard-arnaults-lvmh-posts-record-sales-profit-for-2022/ (Accessed: 15 April 2023). 

 

Sotheby’s (2023 a) Understanding the latest Chanel bag price hikes and the resale market... Available at: https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/understanding-the-latest-chanel-bag-price-hikes-and-the-resale-market (Accessed:  17 April 2023). 

 

Sotheby’s (2023 b) Complete guide to buying a Birkin Bag | Handbags and accessories ... (no date). Available at: https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/complete-guide-to-buying-a-birkin-bag (Accessed: 17 April 2023). 

 

Statista (2022) Louis Vuitton brand profile in the UK 2022. Available at: https://www.statista.com/forecasts/1352031/louis-vuitton-luxury-fashion-brand-profile-in-the-uk (Accessed: 14 April 2023).

 

Yeoman, I. and McMahon-Beattie, U. (2013) “Exclusivity: The future of luxury,” Journal of Revenue and Pricing Management, 13(1), pp. 12–22. Available at: https://doi.org/10.1057/rpm.2013.29 (Accessed: 14 April 2023).

 

Wang, X., Sung, B. and Phau, I. (2021) “Examining the influences of perceived exclusivity and perceived rarity on consumers' perception of luxury,” Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 26(2), pp. 365–382. Available at: https://doi.org/10.1108/jfmm-12-2020-0254 (Accessed: 14 April 2023).

 

Wiedmann, K.-P., Hennigs, N. and Siebels, A. (2009) “Value-based segmentation of luxury consumption behaviour,” Psychology and Marketing, 26(7), pp. 625–651. Available at: https://doi.org/10.1002/mar.20292 (Accessed: 14 April 2023).

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